The Italian Normal Route to Piz Bernina (4049 m) follows the South-West Ridge (Spallagrat). While less aesthetic than the famous Biancograt, it remains a challenging alpine ascent on mixed terrain, snow, ice, and rock. The ascent is typically done in two days, with an overnight stay at the Marco e Rosa Hut (3597 m).

  • Piz Bernina
  • 2 days
  • Medium difficulty
  • Presence of nearby refreshment point
  • Maximum number of participants
  • Suitable for adults only

Piz Bernina Normal Route

Climbing Piz Bernina Italian Normal Route is an extraordinary mountaineering experience for expert alpinists, a unique journey through one of the most beautiful and majestic mountains of the Central Alps. It is a technical and demanding climb, perfect for those seeking a classic ascent on a remote and wild 4000-meter peak. It offers a varied mixed climbing (rock, snow, and ice) and an incredible panoramic views over the Alps.

Route Overview:

Day 01: approach to Marco e Rosa Hut
Start from the Campo Moro Reservoir (Lanzada, Valmalenco - 1829 m).
Ascend via the Fellaria Glacier, passing the Bignami Hut (2401 m) and reaching the Western Marinelli Pass (3081 m).
Cross the Upper Scerscen Glacier to arrive at the Marco e Rosa Hut (3597 m) after about 6-8 hours of hiking, with 1768 meters elevation gain.
Dinner and overnight stay at the refuge.

Day 02: Piz Bernina ascent
Depart at dawn from the hut and reach the shoulder of the Bernina at about 3850 meters: the route follows a stretch on snow and ice, up to the beginning of the South-West Ridge (Spallagrat). The ridge consists of rock climbing (III UIAA) and exposed snowy sections. The final stretch involves a steep mixed climb up to the summit cross of Piz Bernina (4049 m). The ascento to the summit takes about 4/5 hours and 452 meters elevation gain from the hut.

The long and demanding descent follows the same itinerary as the ascent, requiring caution in exposed sections. Return to the Marco e Rosa Hut, then down to Campo Moro.

Mountain guide price for the ascent of the Piz Bernina

from € 950 - 1 person
from € 1200 - 2 persons

The price not includes:

Overnight stay, dinner and breakfast (1 nigth).

Where to meet your mountain guide

  • Meeting point On the day of your excursion, meet your guide:
    Campo Moro Dam
    Lanzada, Valmalenco
    Italy
  • Meeting time to be agreed
  • Geographic coordinates 46°18'20.4"N 9°55'36.6"E

What to bring

  • Crampons
  • Mountaineering ax
  • Climbing helmet
  • Climbing harness
  • Descender
  • Carabiners
  • Mountain boots
  • Water bottle
  • Snacks
  • Technical apparel
  • Change of clothing
  • Backpack

What you need to know

  • Equipment Remember to bring the minimum required equipment for the activity. If you do not own the equipment let us know, we will provide it for you, if available or for hire.
  • Reservation The reservation for this experience is individual, with a dedicated mountain guide. It may be reserved for a number of participants no greater than the maximum number allowed.
  • Excursion price The price shown is for the excursion with the dedicated mountain guide and possible transfer using the guide's private vehicle. It is valid for individual reservations for a number of participants that does not exceed the maximum number allowed.
  • Safety The mountain guide may cancel or suspend the excursion or change the itinerary if minimum safety conditions are not guaranteed. Please view the terms.
  • Rigid terms of cancellation The terms of cancellation and change for this experience are rigid. Please view the terms.

How to reserve your mountain guide

To reserve a IFMGA-UIAGM Certified Mountain Guides for climbing the Piz Bernina Italian Normal Route, you must send a request that provides and specifies your contact information, the number of participants and the date/period in which you wish to take the Piz Bernina ascent via Spallagrat.
We will respond immediately to confirm the availability of the guide, the deadline, if any, to confirm the option for the reservation, methods of payment, characteristics and organization of the mountaineering experience.
Once the reservation is confirmed, we will send you the receipt and the presentation voucher with the details of the service, the name of the mountain guide or the mountaineering school, and all the contact information.

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